Bali Dreamwave
I’m on a crash course and no one can stop me. I have a date with destiny. She’s been calling my name. I can hear the echoes in my dreams, in my reality, in my every thought. The time has come. I have arrived. There is no more escaping the inevitable.
I looked at tickets home today. What a bizarre feeling. I laughed out loud. I thought I was done blogging, I thought my magic had left me, I thought all my feelings had been spent, and then I went and had a day.
Life is short, living right near the edge makes you forget everything else, and today, I could smell it. Death was around every corner, but that also meant something else. So was life.
The moment I paddled out today, I found destiny sitting there. A girl had gone swimming and was stuck screaming for help. There’s a large swell in right now and she was all alone out there. No one around but me. What happens if I’m not there?
It took me 45 min paddling to get her close to shore. Alina I think her name was. Russian, not tons of English. I’ll never see her again. That’s 2 people I’ve saved surfing in the last 8 months. I guess that equals the 2 times I got saved in Nicaragua. Didn’t even realize that. Wow.
All of life is just noise. When the waves come crashing, you realize none of that other shit matters. Worries, anxieties, depression, they all go out the window when you’re life’s being dangled in front of you.
When you focus on that perspective, it’s easy to be happy. Maybe you’ll find your already in your dream.
That made me smile just writing that.
This rice paddy next to my hostel is just everything. Beautiful start. Coffee and straight to the beach.
The beach: 😵💫😵💫😵💫
Those waves are biggggg 🙄 2-3m, 6-10ft+
I said, I want to chill on the corner of the longboard wave. I never longboard. Why not today when it’s double overhead…why not?!
OMW to save this girl I guess!
I got a bike again and it always feels soooooooooooo gooooooooooood.
Stoke level 🚀
Riding bikes in Bali might be harder than Vietnam. The roads are crowded and tight. There’s cars squeezing in and the roads aren’t so great. They drive a lot faster and lots are foreigners having fun rather than just driving. All sorts of chaos.
Isn’t she wonderful?! Just everything about this setup right now 🫠🫠🫠
This Korean Fried Chicken! 😱😱😱
Me and the bros. Same same, but different?
These views are incredible. They look like the salt flats of Utah.
Usually countries whisper when you walk but liked “you need weed, coke, pills?” But in Bali, all the surf schools kinda look at you like, “surf bro? You want a board,” in the exact same manner 😆😆😆
Getting back was another story 😅🥲
If you didn’t know, I forgot, that Dreamwave is a reference to Blade Runner 2049. I found this mesmerizing and had to watch after a friend alerted me.
I seriously am tired of trying to put these together even though I enjoy them. Halfway through I got so frustrated lol. Maybe I’ll actually skip them soon. Who knows, I can do what I want. Goodnight 😝